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The harvest is strictly carried out by hand and it normally takes place during the first decade of September; grapes are picked and softly pressed simultaneously. The fermentation lasts about two weeks and it is done at a low temperature in order to obtain more elegant aromas. The wine is kept in cement tanks for 60 days until the primary fermentation. The secondary fermentation takes place in the bottle, without racking off the lees. Bottle aging for 4/5 months, prior to the selling of the product.70% Trebbiano Romagnolo – 30% Malvasia di Candia non aromatica
Grape varietal : Trebbiano Romagnolo and Malvasia di Candia [non aromatica].Harvest technique : Hand harvested.Yeasts : first fermentation in tank with native yeasts and then second done in bottle with addition of grape must from same year.Élevage : 4 months in bottle.
I first met Mirco Mariotti over ten years ago in the castle-and-moat city of Ferrara, where I was then living. The city is located in the eastern, Romagna, part of Emilia-Romagna; an area much less well-known than Emilia part (which of course is home of Lambrusco and aceto balsamico). The part of Romagna where Mariotti is from is a laid back beach area, where locals eat grilled flat-bread sandwiches called piadina romagnola, and slosh back the frothy frizzante. In fact, Mariotti’s wines are named after local card games! Instead of charmat, he produces old-school bottle fermented (rifermentato in bottiglia) wines out the native grapes Trebbiano Romagnolo, and a rare red called Fortana – a savoury wild thing with high acid and a black cherry or wild strawberry notes depending on vintage; it also has a bitter vermouth-like spice to it. I find it similar to the Lambrusco di Sorbara, with a less refined acidity but a more a savory complexity.
His vines are in Fortana’s grand cru growing area of Bosco Eliceo, just 300 meters from the Adriatic sea. Since the vines are grown in sand (Beach Vines! Beach Wines!), they are non-grafted and on their own native rootstock (It. piede franco). Interestingly, he uses the process of propaggine, a type of selezione massale, for new vines. Many vines are over 100 years old, with roots good deep two meters to the aquifer below. They are gnarly. And, by growing vines so close to the beach, that savory, even salty mouthfeel, really come through. Mariotti is an excellent example of a producer who is making more interesting wines than a generation ago, that are less rustic but aren’t tying to follow the model of fine wines. They make me want to invite friends over to play cards. Kick off your sandals, light up the grill, and deal the cards. This is farmer-fizz from local varieties that’s unique, delicious, and without pretense.
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